Dear client,

You have selected a wonderful pet. You are on the threshold of a new and rewarding experience!

New kittens are a joy. All are unique and will provide years of friendship and entertainment for the whole family. Cats are probably the most self reliant pets of any you may have considered. Love, attention and understanding on your behalf will be appreciated and is normally returned in kind. Cats are playful, easily house trained, naturally clean, require little grooming or training, and usually adapt beautifully to indoor living.

Obtaining a cat is like adopting a child. You have a responsibility to fulfill, to help him learn the rules of your household. The more you know about your cat, the easier it will be to establish a deep and loving relationship which hopefully will last many years.

Cats are great fun and make good companions. However, they are totally dependent on you for affection as well as physical and medical care.

Upon entering your home, your kitten is going to require some extra special attention in the first few days. Ongoing care and attention will help your kitten grow into a happy, healthy cat.

We realize that new kitten owners have many concerns. So we have put together a Kitten Information Handbook to get you off to a good start. Included are basic tips on litter training, health care, feeding and grooming. If you wish you may print out this handbook and keep it handy in your kitten folder provided by us at your first visit.

Please note: We have only touched briefly on some subjects so do not hesitate to call us should you have further concerns. Any one of our knowledgeable staff would be happy to address your kitten care issues.

Your friends at Killarney Cat Hospital

WHAT TO DO IN CASE OF EMERGENCY

Please take one of our fridge magnets and place it on the door of your refrigerator so you can readily dial our telephone number in case of emergency. Our operating hours are:

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday 7:30 am - 6:00 pm

Thursday 7:30 am - 8:00 pm

Saturday 9:00 am - 2:00 pm

After regular working hours we forward our telephone to our cell phone in order to give you a possibility to talk to a "live person". In case we are not available please leave us a message and we will make every effort to return your call as soon as possible. In case we are not available to return your call please refer to the phone number of the emergency clinic in the message.

HOW TO REACH US

Tel: (403) 246-1115
Fax: (403) 246-1470

e-mail: stephan@catdoctor.ca
website: catdoctor.ca

Please do not hesitate to call with your questions or concerns. We would rather you call early than have your pet suffer needlessly or worsen overnight. Often we can advise you on what to do or medications to give at home to keep your pet comfortable until our office is open. Please do not give human medications to your pet without checking with us first. Many human drugs are toxic to pets or are dosed very differently in animals. For Instance, Tylenol and Advil are toxic to dogs and cats, and even a small amount of aspirin can be fatal for your cat.

FIRST AID TIPS

Severe Bleeding: apply pressure with a cloth, bandage or your hand. Call your veterinarian.

Choking: try to remove the object from the animal's throat especially if it is unconscious. You may use a Heimlich maneuver but be gentle, as too forceful squeezing may cause internal injuries.

Vomiting: do not give food for 12 24 hours. Give ice chips for 2 hours after vomiting stops. Then slowly increase the amount of food and water given over a 24 hour period. Call your veterinarian, especially if the response to treatment is not good, or if vomiting is accompanied by diarrhea, fever, listlessness, pain or other signs of illness.

Diarrhea: do not give food for 12 24 hours. Save a sample of the diarrhea in the refrigerator for testing. Call your veterinarian.

Fracture: Signs of a bone fracture include inability to stand on one leg, limping, intense pain, and bone appearing to bend where it shouldn't. What you should do:
" Muzzle the animal and control bleeding.
" Watch for any sign of shock such as weak pulse, irregular breathing, dilated pupils, unconsciousness. If shock does occur, keep animal gently restrained, quiet and warm.
" Do not try to reset. Transport the animal to a veterinarian immediately using a stretcher (a door, board, blanket or floor mat).

HOME HEALTH CHECK LIST

Cats are experts at hiding illness. It is common for a cat to have a serious medical problem, yet not show any sign of it until the condition is quite advanced. Since most diseases can be managed more successfully when detected and treated early in their course, it is important for owners of cats to carefully monitor their behaviour and health. This is especially true for owners of seniors cats.

You should give your kitten regular checkups to make sure all is well. Get your kitten used to being handled; he should accept stroking and grooming, and a thorough once over as part of its daily routine. Once every week or so, take a good look at your kitten's eyes, ears, mouth, paws, nails, skin and coat. It is important to find problems early, before they become serious. If you notice anything unusual, be sure to consult us.

WHY VACCINATE

Cats are independent animals. Their natural roaming habits may bring them into contact with other animals - increasing their exposure to disease. Cats are at risk from a multitude of infectious diseases. An unvaccinated cat may become severely ill from one or more of these diseases and risk long-term illness, lameness, blindness or even death. In addition, an unvaccinated, diseased cat can infect all other unvaccinated cats with which it comes into contact. That is why vaccination is so important.

Q: When should I vaccinate my cat?
A: Generally, we recommend vaccinating kittens at the age of 8 weeks, followed by a booster at 12 weeks. Kittens at high risk may be vaccinated as early as 6 weeks. Adult cats should be vaccinated once yearly, depending on the vaccination program recommended by the veterinarian.

Q: My cat is an indoor cat, do I need to vaccinate it?
A: Yes, indoor cats can also contract infections. Some viruses are air-borne especially Upper Respiratory Viruses and being indoors does not eliminate this risk - viruses are everywhere.

Q: Why Does My Kitten Need More Than One Vaccination for Feline Distemper, Upper Respiratory Infections, and Leukemia?
A: When the kitten nurses its mother, it receives a temporary form of immunity through its mother's milk. This immunity is in the form of proteins called antibodies. For about 24-48 hours after birth, the kitten's intestine allows absorption of these antibodies directly into the blood stream. This immunity is of benefit during the first few weeks of the kitten's life, but, at some point, this immunity fails and the kitten must be able to make its own long-lasting immunity. Vaccinations are needed for this purpose. As long as the mother's antibodies are present, vaccinations do not "take." The mother's antibodies will neutralize the vaccine so the vaccine does not get a chance to stimulate the kitten's immune system.
Many factors determine when the kitten will be able to respond to the vaccines. These include the level of immunity in the mother cat, how much of the antibody the kitten has absorbed, and the number of vaccines given the kitten. Since we do not know when an individual kitten will lose the short-term immunity, it is given a series of vaccinations. The hope is that at least two of these will fall in the window of time when the kitten has lost the immunity from its mother but has not yet been exposed to disease. A single vaccination, even if effective, is not likely to stimulate the long-term immunity, which is so important. Rabies vaccine is an exception to this, since one injection given at the proper time is enough to produce long-term immunity.

Q: If the first vaccination and initial boosters fail to produce good immunity in some kittens because of interference from mother's antibodies would it not be best to just wait and give only the final boosters in the series?
A: No . All boosters must be given at their proper time intervals for full protection because once the level of immunity has dropped to a certain point, (we can not tell when this point has been reached), then the kitten is susceptible to deadly diseases such as Distemper, Feline Leukemia, etc.

Q: Can't you tell from physical examination of the kitten whether it still has a good level of Maternal Antibodies?
A: No. there is no way of telling this by a physical examination.

Q: Can't you do a lab test to tell the level of Maternal Antibodies?
A: It is possible to take a blood sample to determine the level of antibodies of various diseases. However this is extremely costly, time consuming and often times unreliable. The only practical approach to vaccinating kittens in the real world is to complete the kitten booster series on schedule. Of course if you wish us to test your cat's blood for antibodies we would be happy to do so.

Q: What is the difference between the Annual Vaccination and the Booster Vaccination?
A: They are the same vaccine. We are not exposing the kitten to a different vaccine but rather we are re-exposing the kitten to the same vaccine again in order to get a higher level of immunity.

Q: My cat is an adult cat and has never had vaccines. Will he/she need boosters a month after the first initial vaccination?
A: Yes, since we are using attenuated vaccines one dose is not able to stimulate the cat's immune system to produce appropriate protection. A second dose in 30-days is required. In the meantime, it is not recommended to expose your cat to other animals, especially when their vaccination status is unknown.

Q: What happens if I miss the booster?
A: Your cat will not have good protection against infectious diseases. As a matter of fact, the immunity will last only a very short time.

Q: Why do adult cats need annual booster vaccinations?
A: Yearly boosters are important for maintaining a proper level of immunity. After each booster the level of immunity will gradually drop-off so we need to booster periodically to keep the immunity up.

Q: Are vaccines safe?
A: Yes, they are very safe. Huge numbers of pets are vaccinated every year with minimal side effects.

Q: What are the most common side effects?
A: Just like us, when we get vaccinated. A vaccinated cat may show signs of fatigue, decreased appetite, or may sneeze or have watery eyes for a short time. These signs are usually temporary and it is recommended that a newly vaccinated cat not be overwhelmed with attention or activity. Rarely, vomiting and diarrhea, or a skin lump can occur. In these rare cases you are advised to talk to your veterinarian.

Q: Will my cat get a physical examination before a vaccination?
A: Only healthy cats can be vaccinated. Sick animals cannot respond well to vaccination. We give every cat a thorough examination prior to any immunization.

Q: How do I decide which diseases to vaccinate against?
A: The veterinarian, using the information from the physical examination, will suggest a vaccination program best suited to your cat.

INFECTIOUS DISEASES OF CATS:

FELINE PANLEUKOPENIA (also known as Distemper or Feline infectious enteritis) is a highly contagious viral disease that can kill both kittens and adult cats that have not been vaccinated. Symptoms include sudden onset of fever, lack of appetite, dehydration, depression, vomiting, dizziness, incoordination . Infected cats may show a decreased number of white blood cells. Mortality rates can be high. . Vaccination against Panleukopenia is the only protection for cats.

FELINE VIRAL RHINOTRACHEITIS (FVR, also known as Feline Herpesvirus) is a respiratory disease caused by Feline Herpesvirus type 1. Symptoms includes sneezing, coughing, photosensitivity (where the eyes are sensitive to light), swelling in the conjunctiva (eyelid tissues) in one or both eyes with discharge from eyes and nose. Depression and lack of appetite and fevers may be seen. Ulcers of the eye may develop and may lead to severe eye infections or blindness

FELINE CALICIVIRUS is a respiratory disease similar to a human cold. It is caused by an RNA virus and is more resistant than FVR although its symptoms may appear less severe. Symptoms are similar to FVR but often include ulcers of the tongue. Pneumonia may develop, leading to high mortality rates in kittens.

FELINE CHLAMYDIOSIS (also known as feline Pneumonitis or Chlamydia) is a respiratory disease that shows most of its symptoms in the eyes. Severely affected kittens may have eyes completely swollen shut and have prolonged conjunctivitis. Chlamydia can be very resistant to treatment; infected cats may take months to recover with antibiotic ointments.

FELINE LEUKEMIA VIRUS is another infectious disease for which there exists a vaccine but it is not as easily transmitted to cats as the upper respiratory diseases. Feline Leukemia (FeLV) is an infectious disease transmitted from cat to cat in a close and intimate setting. No vaccine can provide 100% protection but keeping kittens away from sources of infection (outdoor FeLV positive cats) is the best way to prevent the spread of this disease. This virus suppresses a cat's immune system, leaving it unable to fight off other infections. In some cats it can also cause cancer. It is a fatal illness, with 75% of cats dying within 3 years of diagnosis. A blood test is usually run prior to starting the vaccine. Feline leukemia is a latent virus and can remain in a hibernation state for many years, so we highly recommend annual testing. The vaccination is recommended for cats who spend some time outside, or who are in multi-cat households.

FELINE IMMUNODEFICIENCY VIRUS is the feline version of the humane HIV. The virus is typically spread when one cat bites another.

FELINE INFECTIOUS PERITONITIS (FIP) This virus is fatal in almost all cases. It can have many symptoms, including fever, weight loss, anorexia, anemia, fluid in the chest or abdomen, nervous system disorders, eye disease, and liver disease. No specific diagnostic test is available to identify FIP. Cats with the highest risk of FIP, living in catteries, kept outdoors, or infected with feline leukemia/feline immunosuppressive virus.
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RABIES is a deadly disease that can infect all mammals. Bats, skunks, raccoons, or foxes most often infect cats and dogs. Cats have surpassed dogs as the most frequently reported rabid domestic animals. Not only will the vaccine protect the cat from rabies, but it will also protect any humans in contact with the cat.

Why should my cat be tested for FELV and FIV?

The American Association of Feline Practitioners, an organization of veterinarians with a special interest in the health of cats, urges you to have your cat tested for FIV and FeLV. Early detection of infection will help you not only to maintain the health of your own cat, but also allow you to prevent spreading infection to other cats.

Fortunately, it is usually quite simple to diagnose infection. A small blood sample is all that's needed, and veterinarians often choose to perform the test right in the hospital. You'll get the result of an "in house" test in minutes, allowing you to consult with your veterinarian before leaving the clinic. In some cases, however, it may be necessary to follow up with a blood sample sent to a veterinary laboratory. In this case, the result will usually be available to you within a week.

When should my cat be tested?

• FIV and FELV testing is important in the following situations:
• If your cat has never been tested before.
• If your cat is sick, even if it may have tested free of infection in the past.
• When cats are newly adopted esp. with unknown medical history (SPCA, Petstores…)
• Whether or not they will be entering a household with other cats.
• If your cat has recently been exposed to an infected cat.
• If your cat is exposed to cats that may be infected (for example, if your cat goes outdoors unsupervised or lives with other cats that might be infected). Your veterinarian may suggest testing periodically as long as your cat is potentially exposed to infected cats.

Prior to your cat's receiving an FELV vaccine (in this case, FELV testing is the most important).

Am I at risk?

Research to date has shown that FIV and FELV only affect cats.

Talk with your veterinarian about having your cat tested. Your veterinarian is your best source of information on the prevention, diagnosis and management of FIV or FELV infection. Routine visits to your veterinarian can help you know if your cat is sick. Remember, infected cats may live for years if diagnosed early and treated properly. Early detection offers infected cats the best chance for a long and happy life, and helps prevent the spread of infection to other cats.

RECOMMENDED VACCINATION SCHEDULE (may vary).

Recommended vaccination for Indoor vs. Outdoor cats

Booster Vaccinate For These Diseases As Recommended!

THE TOP THREE FATAL FELINE INFECTIOUS DISEASES

For years now, we've had safe and effective vaccines for distemper, rabies and the respiratory diseases that used to kill millions of cats every year. Because most of our clients are vaccinating their pets for them, these once very common infections are under control. (They are still common in outdoor and unvaccinated cats.)

The diseases that are now killing millions of cats are ones that many of our patients are still not being vaccinated for. These diseases are known by a confusing set of initials:

FELV - feline leukemia virus
FIV - feline immunodeficiency virus
FIP - feline infectious peritonitis

About 10% of cats in this country are infected with one or more of these viruses. Once your cat becomes ill with any of these diseases he or she will die. There are no effective treatments or cures. What will save cats' lives is preventing the spread of these infections through blood testing and vaccination.

All three of these infections can be carried and spread for long periods of time by cats who are harboring the viruses with no obvious symptoms of disease. Cats who appear perfectly healthy can be infected yet not come down with an illness for months or years. During these months or years, however, they are contagious to other cats.

The number one infectious disease killer of cats in the United States and Canada today is Feline Leukemia Virus, or FELV. FELV destroys the cat's Immune system so that he falls prey to anemia, cancer or infectious diseases that a healthy cat would not get. A simple blood test is 99% accurate in diagnosing the disease. It is less accurate in kittens or in cats who have only recently been exposed to the disease. We routinely test all new cats and kittens entering a household. We also vaccinate for this disease as often as we can. Effective vaccines have been available for more than ten years and are often included in the same vaccine with distemper and the respiratory disease viruses. The vaccine should be boostered every year.

ARE PARASITES ROBBING YOU AND YOUR CAT?

Many kittens are born with intestinal worms! These parasites can cause vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, stunted growth and even death. Some kinds, especially roundworms, are also transmissible to humans. There are 10,000 cases of animal parasites causing disease In children every year in the United States and Canada.

Roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, and coccidia are four of the most common internal parasites that can reside in your cat. These parasites rob your cat of good nutrition and rob you economically. But more importantly, they rob your cat of good health. The vomiting, diarrhea, anemia, and dehydration associated with intestinal parasites weaken a cat. The resulting debilitation will make your cat more susceptible to viral and bacterial infections and diseases.

ROUNDWORMS

are the most common type of worm. They are 2 3 inches long and resemble strands of spaghetti. They live in the small intestine, and may cause vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss. This parasite is most commonly transmitted via the stools of other cats or dogs, or from eating mice or other rodents which may harbor infective larvae of the worm. Mother cats can also pass these worms to their unborn kittens.

HOOKWORMS
are small, fine worms which attach to the walls of the small intestine and live by sucking blood from the cat. They cause severe diarrhea, which may be bloody, and anemia, especially in kittens and young cats. Hookworms are usually transmitted by infested stools of other cats or dogs, or via the uterus or mother's milk.

TAPEWORMS
also live in the small intestine, where the head attaches to the intestinal wall and produces a chain of segments. Mature segments containing eggs are passed with the stool, or may be seen around the rectum. They resemble small grains of rice. They may be acquired through the ingestion of rodents or birds or, more commonly, through the ingestion of fleas. Flea control is essential to control tapeworm infestation

COCCIDIA
are one celled protozoal parasites, more like bacteria rather than "worms." Kittens can pick these up from their mother and they can also be acquired by eating rabbit or other wildlife droppings. They are treated with antibiotics.

GIARDIA
are also protozoans. They are very difficult to pick up on a regular stool check. Antibiotics or special wormers kill them but they are difficult to eradicate completely and often flare up with stress or other intestinal problems. They are contagious to humans and cause vomiting and diarrhea in both people and pets.

If a stool sample is positive for parasites, the veterinarian will prescribe an effective dewormer. We usually recommend deworming twice, two weeks apart. Please weigh your animal before picking up any wormer, to ensure that the proper dose is given. A stool sample should be checked again 4 to 8 weeks later, to ensure that your pet is not being reinfested by his or her environment. Clean the litter box daily as well.

How do I know whether my kitten has intestinal parasites?

Internal parasites are diagnosed by having a fresh stool sample examined under a microscope by someone here at the veterinary hospital. This should be done as part of a health exam when you obtain a new kitten or cat, and on a yearly basis as part of your cat's annual health exam and vaccinations

Stool samples should be tested periodically, for instance, when your cat receives annual booster vaccinations, approximately 2-3 weeks after any worming medication to ensure that the medication has been effective. We prefer to worm only with the proper medication after a positive diagnosis has been made. Several dosages of medications may be required.
Good parasite control is very important for increased longevity of your cat. Finally, because all these parasites have the potential of infecting humans it makes good sense to prevent your own exposure by keeping your cat free of parasites.

Dear Client, we at Killarney Cat Hospital emphasize preventive medicine. We are convinced that fecal analysis can help detect potential problems before they become major health threats. We have prepared a testing kit, which is very easy to use. Collect the suggested sample and bring it in to our hospital. We are able to run it immediately, so results can be obtained readily. In case this test will be negative or within normal limits, you will have peace of mind that your cat is not suffering from any zoonosis (infection from animal to people). If the fecal test result is positive we will recommend a course of action to prevent infection. Early detection of subtle problems may add years to your cat's life and prevent the need for costly corrective procedures.

How to collect a fresh stool sample

Try to collect the freshest sample you can and keep it refrigerated until you can bring it in to the veterinary hospital.

Directions for use: collect fresh stool sample from litterboxand put it into the provided zip lock baggie. Seal it thoroughly and refrigerate until you bring the sample to our office (sample is viable for 24 hours if refrigerated not frozen).

Facts about parasites

Fecal analysis Intestinal parasites threaten your cat's health. Large numbers of parasites can cause intestinal blockage, bloody diarrhea and even death in young or weakened pets. Certain types can also infect you and your family.
Infection can occur through ingesting fleas, contact with infected animals, their droppings and contaminated food or water.
Symptoms include: anemia, diarrhea, vomiting, appetite loss, weight loss, underdevelopment, coughing or simply no symptoms at all.
Diagnosis: microscopic examination of your cat's stool sample is necessary to detect the presence and type of parasite infection.
Treatment is precise and based on the exact parasite(s) present. Many prescribed medications are given orally and some may require injections. Worms and their eggs can be difficult to destroy so follow-ups may be necessary. Over-the-counter products may cause side effects if not administered properly.
Prevention: sanitation is key to prevention control. Regular cleaning of the litter box is essential. Stool samples should be examined microscopically on the regular basis.

ELECTIVE SURGERIES

Sterilization

The average lifespan of a neutered pet is 40% longer than that of an unneutered one. Unspayed females will usually develop breast cancer or severe uterine infections by the time they are 8 10 years of age. Unspayed females also are in heat frequently, during which time they are noisy and troublesome to live with. Worst of all, millions of unwanted kittens are put to death in this country every year because there aren't enough homes for them all.

Unneutered male cats have very strong smelling urine, which they like to spray in the house to mark their territory. They are also prone to wander in search of female cats and are also very territorial. These traits lead to high rates of death from being run over by cars, fight wounds and contagious illnesses. Male cats are also, of course, equally responsible for pet overpopulation.

We recommend spaying (surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus) of female cats, and castration (surgical removal of the testicles) of males, for all pets that will not be used for purebred breeding. This should be done when your animal reaches 6 months of age. Your animal will be a healthier, happier pet, and you will have done your part to reduce the pet overpopulation problem.

While your pet is anesthetized we can also remove any retained baby teeth, fluoride the new adult teeth or implant a microchip ID.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING

If you are not planning to breed your cat, we strongly recommend that you have your female cat spayed/your male cat neutered. Cats become sexually mature around six months of age, therefore, at this time we recommend spaying or neutering. This will help ensure you get a good night's sleep (cats in heat yowl!), and will reduce the incidence of cats spraying urine in and around your house.

SPAYING (Ovariohysterectomy)

The surgery is performed under sterile operating room conditions, with the animal under a general anesthetic. It involves the removal of the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus (womb) through an abdominal incision. After the operation, the female will not come into heat, and will have neither the interest nor capacity to breed. There is NO ADVANTAGE in waiting for the female to have a heat cycle or a litter before being spayed.
Spaying prevents unwanted heat cycles, reproductive diseases and unwanted pregnancies. Apart from sexual activity, spaying has no effect on the female`s temperament.

NEUTERING

This procedure involves the removal of the testicles through a small incision made on the scrotal sack, with the cat under a general anesthetic. This eliminates the source of sperm and male hormone.
Neutered male cats are less likely to roam, fight with other cats, or spray urine in the house. It does not change the cat`s personality, reduce or prevent unwanted aggressive behaviour to people. Neutering does reduce the offensive odour of "tom cat urine".

DECLAWING

Many people who keep their cats indoors prefer to have their front paws declawed. This surgery is done under anesthesia and requires 2-3 days of hospitalization. We recommend that it be done as soon as your kitten has started his or her vaccination series, has been tested for internal parasites and weighs at least 2 Ibs.

Declawing can also be done at 6 months of age, in conjunction with spaying or neutering. Occasionally, we will declaw all four feet, but this is hard on the cat and is seldom necessary.

The older the cat, the more painful declawing is, so please decide early if you want your cat declawed. If you start trimming your kitten's nails every 4 6 weeks (we can show you how), and train it to use a scratching post, you may not need to declaw at all.

MORE.....

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR CAT'S FOOD

One of the most common questions we are asked is "What should I feed my pet?" Since the most important contribution you can make to your pet's health and well being is his or her daily diet, it's a question that deserves a good answer.

Think quality!

First of all, with pet foods, as with most things, you get what you pay for. Cheap dog and cat foods use cheap ingredients, have poor quality control, are not well digested and may have excesses or deficiencies in vital nutrients, which can harm your pet. When analyzed in a laboratory many generic and store brand foods do not actually contain the level of nutrition stated on the label. So, to get the nutrition you are paying for, choose a well known name brand.

Your pet will do best if you pick one complete food that is appropriate for his or her age and activity level, and stick with it. For a puppy or kitten this means a puppy or kitten food. Young, rapidly growing animals need more nutrition than adult food can provide.

Don't switch foods

Animals do not need variety in their diets. Cats are prone to digestive upsets such as diarrhea on varied diets or table scraps. These problems usually appear in middle aged dogs, who may by then be difficult to accustom to a more healthy diet. Cats are prone to becoming finicky eaters when fed a varied diet, causing problems for their owners later on. So don't switch foods every other week. If you do need to change from one product to another, do so gradually by mixing the two diets together for a few days. This will help prevent diarrhea from a too sudden change in food.

Don't base your food choices on what you would like to eat, as many pet food manufacturers would like you to do. Dogs and cats are color blind, so they don't care whether their food is red or brown. They also don't care !f it looks like beef stew or little pork chops! The fancier the food looks, the more you are paying for unnecessary artificial coloring, flavoring and preservatives.

Recommendation:

We usually recommend Hill's and Medi-cal diets because of Its consistent high quality. Premium foods contain superior nutrition over grocery store brands. They are extensively tested and meet rigid standards with no ingredient substitutions. The finest pet foods are formulated with controlled levels of key nutrients like fat, protein, phosphorus and magnesium to help reduce the risk of such problems as obesity and kidney disease.

That is why, even though grocery store brands provide adequate nutrition for many pets, we still recommend that you feed your pet the best you can buy. Not only are you getting better nutrition for your pet, but the daily cost to you is often not any greater than if you were feeding a cheaper brand. Better foods may cost more per bag, but the superior nutrition and better digestibility of these foods means you feed less per day, you clean up less stool later, and your veterinary bills for nutritionally related diseases will be less as well.

What about treats?

Most dog owners, and an increasing number of cat owners, feed treats to their pets, as well as their regular food. Treats are rarely "complete and balanced", and are often loaded with salt, fat, artificial colorings and preservatives, all of which comprise "junk food" for animals. A daily vitamin and some biscuits every day will not harm your pet unless it has a diet related disease, but it's best to give these items in moderation. Read labels before you buy. Also, these biscuits help slow the build up of dental tarter, but they cannot remove tarter once it is present. Your pet will still need dental care even if you feed him this type of snack.

Our recommendation: Medi-cal healthy treats. Your kitten will enjoy the sample treat enclosed in your kitten package.

Supplements & Calories

Do not give any vitamin or mineral supplements to your cat without your veterinarian's advice. These types of supplements can easily cause harmful nutrient excesses.

Kittens need lots of calories to grow on, and plenty of fresh water. Until they are 4 months old, feed at least three meals a day, giving as much as the animal will consume in a ten to fifteen minute feeding. Kitten food may be left out all the time.

HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS FOR FEEDING YOUR KITTEN

A kitten grows rapidly for the first few months and needs extra, yet balanced, sources of nutrients during this growth phase. Excesses, deficiencies and imbalances of certain dietary nutrients can predispose your kitten to many problems such as diseases of the central nervous system, heart, kidney and bones. Excess calories consumed by growing kittens will stimulate the formation of excessive numbers of fat cells and lead to obesity in adulthood. The following tips will get you off to a good start.

1. When to wean?
Kittens should be weaned at 4 to 6 weeks to a diet specifically designed for growing kittens. Kittens should not be weaned on baby foods, cows milk or other human foods.

2. Choose your kitten's diet carefully.
The diets we recommend are scientifically designed and tested to promote health, vitality and longevity. Optimal nutrition contributes to the health and well-being of your pet and can help reduce the likelihood of illness and disease. If a dry food is selected, it may be advisable to moisten the dry food with warm water for a period of time while your kitten is very young. We recommend feeding some canned food to accustom your kitten to both types of food.

3. How much? How often?
Most kittens are initially fed 4 times daily until 4 months of age. After four months of age, it is best to feed your cat a measured, daily allotment divided into two or three meals. To select the amount of food required for each meal, consult the feeding guides provided by the pet food manufacturer or those calculated by your veterinarian. The amount of food recommended in the manufacturer's feeding guides should only be used as a guideline. Each individual pet needs to be monitored and fed appropriately to achieve an optimal body weight. If you have more than one kitten or cat, it is best to feed each cat a measured portion in their own dish. If your kittens or cats are significantly different in body weight (one heavy, one light), try feeding a specific amount of food to both, with an "extra" small meal for the thinner kitten or cat. NEVER reduce your kitten's or cat's caloric intake by more than 20%.

4. Avoid feeding your kitten "human food".
Additions of any human food will cause an imbalance of nutrients in your cat's diet and could be detrimental. It is particularly important to avoid feeding raw fish, raw eggs, large amounts of liver or small bones. Table foods not only cause nutritional imbalances but may contribute to bad eating habits, nutritional deficiencies and obesity.

5. Change diets slowly.
Sudden changes in diet can cause digestive disturbances such as diarrhea. Even when changing from one high quality diet to another, gradually increase the proportions of the new diet and decrease the old one, over a one-week period. Be sure your kitten is eating the new food. Do not let your kitten go without eating for more than 48 hours.

6. Dogs and cats have different requirements.
The diets formulated for dogs and cats are significantly different. It is dangerous to feed your cat dog food. Cats require specific nutrients, which are not included in dog foods. In addition, cats require significantly more protein.

7. Always have fresh water available.
This is particularly important for cats, as most cats tend to drink more if the water is fresh, clean or moving (i.e. dripping from the tap). If you live in an area where water has a significant odour or taste (chlorine, iron, sulfur, etc.), you may want to consider giving your cat bottled or Brita water (cats are more sensitive to odours and tastes than we are!).

FEEDING YOUR KITTEN

Your cat's nutritional requirements may never be more demanding then when it is a kitten. Therefore, it is essential that you choose a high quality food that is nutritionally complete and balanced for optimum nutrition during this critical growth stage.

We, at Killarney Cat Hospital recommend Medi-Cal Feline Development / Recuperative and or Hill's Prescription diet P/D for optimal health of your kitten.

We believe the following characteristics of Feline Development/Recuperative will positively impact your kitten's development:

• it contains appropriate levels of high quality protein and energy for tissue development and growth.
• it has increased minerals in balanced proportions which supports appropriate growth and bone development.
• it is highly digestible, therefore your pet gets the maximum benefits from reasonable feeding amounts and has low stool volume.
• it contains digestive aids to help your pet completely break down and utilize the proteins, carbohydrates and fats while reducing the incidence of diarrhea.
• supplemented with Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids which improve skin quality and promote a shiny, healthy coat.
• exceptional palatability keeps your pet happy and enthusiastic about meal time.
• developed by a Canadian group of animal health professionals who are accountable and have a sincere desire to see your pet excel.

Feline Medi®-Treats are an excellent treat choice for cats fed Medi-Cal® Development/Recuperative.

Should you have any questions regarding appropriate diets please feel free to call us or address your concerns during your next appointment.

IS DENTAL CARE NECESSARY FOR CATS?

As cats are predators by nature, their teeth are designed to grab prey, kill it and shear off pieces small enough to swallow. Their teeth are not set up to grind or gnaw on things. Our pampered domestic cats no longer need to hunt food; we supply it in neat bite-sized morsels that require no chewing, guaranteeing our cats safely acquire, well-balanced diets.

Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee that most cats will not accumulate plaque on their teeth as they get older. Cats that eat moist food generally will need dental care earlier than cats who have a diet of dry food. However, cats eating 100% dry food may still get substantial plaque buildup because they often do not chew their food enough to break off any plaque. To add to the problem, many of our purebred cats seem to have inherited poor quality enamel on the surface of their teeth, thus allowing plaque to build up more rapidly than in their wild ancestors.

Another factor that makes dental care necessary in some cats is chronic viral infections of the gums. These infections will hasten the development of dental disease. A period of malnourishment during your cat's life may also contribute to poor dental health, even if your cat is now living the life of a well-fed Riley. Whatever the reasons for poor dental health, you and I both know that when we have a toothache or an infection, we feel terrible. Unfortunately, cats rarely show us obvious symptoms of poor dental health until it is very advanced.

This is why we at Killarney Cat Hospital believe it is so important for you, as a cat owner, to be aware of possible dental problems.

Please visit our website (catdoctor.ca/our services/dental health care) for more information about home dental care.

LITTER TRAINING

Cats are by nature very clean animals. House training is generally very easily accomplished if you follow a few recommendations.

1. Most of the kittens and cats will use a litterbox naturally. It is an instinct, so it means they do not need any training for that matter. If your kitten does not use its litterbox then for the first few days your kitten should be confined to a small room or the bathroom (where you plan to keep the litter pan in the future). Its bed, food and water dishes should also be placed in the room. This quiet space will be appreciated by the new kitten, and the confinement will greatly assist house training. After several days, the kitten should be using its litter pan regularly and can be let out of the room to independently explore its new home.

2. It is generally recommended that you select a litter, which does not have any deodorant, particularly during house training. Place about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of litter in the pan. During the training period, place a little soiled litter in with the fresh litter. The soiled litter is a powerful deterrent for the kitten to use the new litter. Clean the litter box frequently - if it becomes too dirty your kitten may stop using it and soil elsewhere in the house.

3. Dump or scoop out the soiled litter, wash the pan with water and replace the litter. The pan should be made of a material which is easily cleaned but never wash it with soap. If the pan smells of soap residue or deodorants, your kitten will be discouraged from using it.

4. Place the pan in a quiet private location which is not in a blind alley, like a closet. It seems that cats like to toilet in a spot they can escape from in many directions. If you have a large multi story house, it is advisable to have litter pans in separate areas of the house. If you have more than one cat, it is advisable to have one more litter box than the number of cats in the household, placed at various locations throughout the home.

5. If your kitten soils outside the litter pan be sure not to punish him/her, even if you catch your kitten in the act. Cats that are punished only become fearful of the owner and besides, discipline will not correct the problem.
6. If a trained cat has an accident in the house, check to see if the pan has been cleaned properly and that the bowel movement and urine are normal.

If your kitten is not house trained within a few days or the bowel movements are not normal, contact us. If at any time after the kitten is trained, it should have an accident outside the litter pan, please contact us.

NORMAL CAT BEHAVIOR

Cats are inquisitive and adventuresome, which frequently gets them Into trouble. You will need to cat proof your home just as you would for a toddler, to prevent accidents and illness.

To prevent problems:
Keep a squirt gun or bottle handy. A squirt of water in the face deters most kittens from doing things they shouldn't do, especially jumping up on counters or playing too aggressively, and it doesn't hurt them.

Spend lots of time playing with your kitten so his energy is used up more constructively. Drag a string around the house or tie an object to a string on a pole and wave it around while watching TV. DO NOT play with your kitten by wiggling your fingers or toes this encourages biting.

Do not hit or strike your kitten for being naughty. This will only frighten or anger him and frequently leads to biting and clawing behavior. Punishment is the least effective training method for cats.

Never force a kitten to stay in your lap if he or she wants to get down. Do not grab at your cat or scare him, or he may learn to bite. Rough and tumble play also encourages aggression, so play gently, using a toy and not your fingers.

Confine your kitten to one room when you aren't home, one that has no plants or dangerous objects. Swallowing or choking on small objects is very common in cats and kittens. Beware of things such as rubber bands, pencil erasers, needles and thread, small toys, metal objects such as paper clips, scraps of fabric, earrings etc. Anything smaller than 1" diameter can probably be swallowed and needs to be kept out of a kitten's reach. Don't give your kitten string or yarn to play with! These are among the most common and deadly of intestinal obstructions.

Provide at least one scratching post for your cat to use. Even declawed cats like to stretch and knead their paws. Rubbing catnip on the post will encourage its use, as will keeping it in a handy place where you and the kitten spend a lot of time. Cats usually prefer a larger post that they can climb up and down. Some cats like wood or rope wrapped posts instead of carpet. The more your kitten likes his post and the more he is encouraged to use it, the less he will scratch at the furniture or rugs. Use your squirt bottle if you see him scratching where he's not supposed to.

To prevent chewing on cords or shoes, use unscented, roll on antiperspirant on these items once or twice a week. Cats don't like the drying, bitter taste and will soon shy away.

Try putting aluminum foil around your plant pots or lay sheets of it on counter tops or tables, especially when you can't be home to use your squirt bottle! Cats don't like the shiny, noisy foil and will generally avoid it. Many types of plants are poisonous to your pet, so it's best to keep them all out of reach. Double sided sticky tape works well on couches and chairs cats don't like the sticky feel on their feet. Just peel the tape off when it's no longer needed.

Be especially vigilant in the laundry and kitchen areas. Laundry soap and bleach are toxic when licked off a cat's paws when they've walked through it. Many cats die each year after exploring the washing machine, taking a nap in the dryer, or jumping on or in a hot stove or oven. Cats are also good at learning how to open cabinet doors!

A collar and ID tag are a good idea, especially if your cat tries to escape outdoors. Use break away collars to prevent choking. Microchips are also available now to safely and permanently identify your cat if he or she becomes lost.

To prevent litter pan avoidance be sure the pan is easily accessible and in a quiet place where your cat will feel comfortable. If your house Is large it is best to have more than one box. We also recommend multiple litter pans with more than one cat in the household. Scoop the boxes daily and empty them completely once a week many cats won't use a dirty litter pan. Avoid heavily scented litters cats don't like perfume. Never physically punish a cat for going outside the litter box they quickly learn to sneak and hide their accidents. Many times litter box avoidance is caused by a physical problem such as intestinal parasites, colitis or bladder Infection. Any time a cat stops using its pan he or she should have a physical examination by a doctor.

If at any time you are having problems with the behavior of your cat, call us right away. Most behavior problems are easily treated If caught !n time.

WHAT IS FUS?

Feline Urological Syndrome, also known as Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease, is one of the most common medical problems of cats. It occurs due to the formation of crystals, made up primarily of magnesium, within the bladder. These sand like crystals irritate the bladder lining, causing pain, and allowing bacterial infection to set in.

FUS affects both males and females, but due to their anatomy it is a much more serious problem in male cats. Crystals and mucous clumping together can form a plug within the penis which blocks urination. A cat that is plugged and cannot urinate will become ill very rapidly. If not treated in time, the bladder will rupture and the kidneys will fail. Death usually occurs within 24 hours.

Female cats have a wider urethra, so they don't plug up as easily. They will, however, develop painful bladder infections (cystitis). Cats of either sex can also develop stones in the bladder or the kidneys.

Signs of FUS in both males and females are bloody urine, straining to urinate (often confused with constipation), pain on urination, or frequent urination, often outside of the litter box. Male cats that are plugged and cannot urinate will often become suddenly and extremely ill. You may see vomiting, depression, squatting in a strange position, reluctance to move or walk, weakness or loud cries of distress. About 1 5% of cats are affected by FUS.

CAN FUS BE TREATED?

Yes, it can. Females are usually healthy enough to be treated at home. Males that are plugged are anesthetized and a catheter is passed into the bladder, dislodging the plug. The catheter is left in place for 1 3 days to allow the bladder and urethra to heal. Treatment is also given as needed for dehydration, infection and shock.

Both males and females will need to be treated with special diets, antibiotics, and sometimes urinary acidifiers as well. The prescription diets are continued for the lifetime of the cat because without long term dietary management, FUS usually recurs.

CAN IT BE PREVENTED?

The best way to prevent FUS is to feed your cat a diet low in magnesium. The majority of commercial cat diets have 10 to 20 times the amount of magnesium needed. Read pet food labels carefully and beware of pet foods labeled "low ash". "Ash" refers to all the minerals, not just magnesium. A food can indeed be "low ash" but still be too high in magnesium. Good foods available to help prevent FUS include Medi-cal; Hill's Prescription diet and Waltham kitten food. Once your cat has had a bout of FUS, special prescription diets are much more effective, however.

Encourage frequent urination by keeping your cat's litter pan clean. Provide plenty of fresh water. Avoid overfeeding to prevent obesity. FUS Is more common In overweight cats.

Above all, remember that FUS In male cats Is a true medical emergency. If you think your cat may be suffering from this problem call your veterinarian immediately

CATS AND HAIRBALLS

Cats spend a significant part of their lives cleaning and grooming as much as 1 /3 of their waking hours. While this natural instinct makes them ideal house pets, it can lead to some uncomfortable side effects.

The problem begins during the cleaning process, when cats often swallow their own hair. The cat's tongue is the culprit. It has tiny, barb like projections on its surface which pull loose hair from the coat. Because of the inward angle of these barbs, the hair remains lodged on the tongue's surface until the cat swallows It. Since hair is largely insoluble protein, it cannot be dissolved by the cat's digestive system. As this undigested hair begins to knot in the stomach and accumulate in the gastrointestinal tract it can interfere with normal digestion and elimination.

Symptoms of "hairballs" include constipation, listlessness, dry cough, and even vomiting. It is also the most frequent cause of depression and loss of appetite in cats.

The most dramatic and obvious symptom is the regurgitated hairball which is often tubular in shape. Besides being an inconvenience to clean up, it is a definite sign that your cat has a problem and needs help.

Although rarely fatal, hairballs are very uncomfortable for your cat and can lead to serious complications.

WHAT CAN BE DONE

Daily brushing of the cat's coat to remove loose hair is good preventative medicine. Longhaired breeds like Himalayans and Persians need special attention. During the spring when all cats shed, daily brushing is especially important. After brushing, wipe your cat down with a damp towel to remove loose hair.

Besides brushing the coat, there are several medications which are available (Felaxin; Toniclax; Laxatone) to eliminate hairballs and help prevent their reoccurrence. A dietary fiber supplement, when added to the cats food, can aid in the elimination of accumulated hair and other materials without discomfort. Laxatives have been recommended by veterinarians for decades. There are many different brands of laxative remedies available and it should be easy to find one that appeals to your cat's taste.

Remember, your cat relies on you for help in relieving this problem. A program of frequent brushing, regular use of a hairball remedy and following the advice of your veterinarian is all it takes.

IS SOMEONE IN YOUR HOUSEHOLD ALLERGIC TO YOUR PET?

When you are near your pet...

o Do you itch or get hives? o Do you get puffy or itchy red eyes? o Do you frequently rub your eyes or nose? o Do you get a stuffy nose? o Do you have a watery nasal discharge? o Do you have shortness of breath? o Do you find it difficult to breathe deeply? o Do you wheeze and sneeze? These are just a few of the many allergic reactions that can be triggered by exposure to the allergens of furred or feathered pets.

Allergies Can Be Heartbreaking

Allergy is the most widespread chronic condition in the world and sensitivities to animals are some of the most frequently seen allergies. Pet allergies are so prevalent that they affect almost every household. With 6 to 8 percent of the population allergic to pets, the United States and Canada alone has between 15 and 20 million people who are adversely affected. If you're allergic to pets, you have plenty of company.

Being allergic doesn't necessarily mean you can't have a pet or that you must give up the one you already have. Learning more about minimizing pet related allergies and making some minor adjustments to your environment will frequently solve your problem.

Allergies to pets can be exceptionally heartbreaking. Sensitivity frequently develops years after acquiring a pet, by which time a strong emotional attachment has developed. Studies have shown that even though many allergists advise their patients to get rid of their pets, most opt to suffer with their symptoms rather than give away a loved dog or cat after years of companionship.

Most allergy patients are first handled by family physicians or pediatricians who will recommend an allergist if it is felt necessary. In choosing a doctor to treat your allergy, look for someone who will be sensitive to your feelings and will try to do everything possible to help you keep your pet. Giving it up for adoption should be your last resort.

If someone in your household has a pet allergy, please let us know. We have a detailed handout of recommendations to minimize allergy symptoms.

Please let us know if someone in your
household has a pet allergy we may help you to alleviate your concern.

TOP TEN REASONS TO KEEP YOUR CAT INDOORS

1. Their owners will never have to bail them out of the local shelter.

2. It will be much more difficult for people to steal them.

3. Crotchety neighbors will like them better.

4. Birds will like them better.

5. When It's ten o'clock at night, their owners will always know where they are.

6. There is less chance of getting a leg caught in a steel jawed trap.

7. It's unlikely cats will contract the Feline Leukemia Virus, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus and other contagious diseases. Cats contract these viruses through contact with other cats.

8. They are not as liable to have fleas, fungus or worms as are free roaming animals.

9. They are less likely to be hit by a car when crossing the living room than they are when crossing the street.

10. The lifespan of an average indoor cat is twelve to fifteen years and that of an average outdoor cat is two to three years.